Trip #6 Kromrivier Trip
Trip #6 Kromrivier and Exploration of the Southern Cederberg Region
TRIP REPORT – Kromrivier – WESTERN CAPE - INLAND REGION – 3, 4 , 5, 6 November 2023
Departing late morning after a final brief to Marianne, our house-sitter for this trip, Ralph headed out on the N1 using the Toll Road to head to our first proposed stop at Op-Die-Berg, via Worcester and the Ceres. The intention was to fuel up there, lunch and visit a town neither of them had been to before. Jeremy had also planned to try and renew his SA Passport at the temporary Home Affairs Office. (just to see if the system actually works beyond the main city centres).
Arriving at Op-Die-Berg, Ralph was filled up at the local co-op and Andrea and Jeremy wandered into the adjoining store to enquired about a good spot for lunch. They were directed to a small coffee establishment with a difference... The local store was a treat of hardware items and excellent pricing, from tools, to gumboots and everything in between to provision the local farming community.
The Wonderlik Restaurant was truly "wonderful", the large hangar was divided into 3 sections comprising the restaurant seating area, loosely sectioned off by antique cupboards and book case room dividers from the farm machinery and new sales tractors. A further sliding divider hid the workshop from view but the smell of oils grease and diesel were apparent. Service was prompt, the coffee potent and prices as only found in the Platteland. It was a remarkable place of interest, historicial features and a working and sales establishment adding to its uniqueness. The Owner's interests came through in the well-stocked library, wooden and gut Slazenger and Dunlop tennis rackets and classic vehicles most notably a 50's era Holden Monaro Fastback, in left-hand-drive.
Leaving Op-Die-Berg after determining that the Home Affairs only visit twice a month (and for collections only), they were informed that Ceres would be the best bet. Heading north again, they abruptly and with no warning, traversed from tar to the gravel, which would be the new normal for the next few days until returning via this route. The route became more and more remote with kilometres of driving without seeing the dust of another vehicle in the distance. Some sixty kilometres later, of breathtaking landscape and occasionally rough twisty and narrow sections of gravel road, they reached Oasis, and the Leopard Trust before branching of left, just before the Maatijies River, to head due west for the Kromrivier Campsite. Switching over to the Garmin due to loss of mobile signal they were directed via the Truitjieskraal Road which was particularly narrow, steep and very stony before descending into the valley again where our accommodation came into view with the mountain range and river as backdrop.
After a quick check in at reception they headed back through the campsite and formal cabins to the tented luxury accommodation south of the river bank. The tented cabin was well-thought out and privately situated with good account of the summer sun movement and prevailing winds in the area offering a secluded and protected outside braai area to complement the well appointed kitchen with convection plates and microwave along with the usual fridge and dry vitel storage areas. Neat, clean and orderly with everything accounted for without being cluttered.
Following a little orientation walk after unpacking they set out to braai outside on a perfect spring evening which promised clear skies for star viewing later that night. The skies did not disappoint. Saturday morning they were up early to breakfast with a plan to visit Lot's Wife and the local wine farm 15 kilometers away over the short tight pass leading to Cederberg North and the road to Clanwilliam via Algeria. The wine farm never disappoints as an oasis nestled in a wide valley now overgrown with vineyard in all compass directions. The Nieu Brew distillery now having moved away from the Kromrivier (as shown on Google), and now very much working alongside the wine farm which also host a permit office for Cape Nature. Here they enjoyed the historical offerings of old wine farm implements and the introduction of wine farming to the region. After making reservations to join the astronomical society for the evenings start gazing, they moved on to Lot's Wife a short distance from the main road via an easy footpath.
With plenty of time in hand after visiting Lot's Wife they headed east to explore some of the roads heading in the direction of the Maaitjies River, before retracing their steps back down the pass into the Kromrivier Valley with the intention of cleaning up before enjoying a restaurant meal for supper and then going directly back up the pass to join the visitors who had signed up for a visit to the astronomical center. Arriving at Reception with one other couple in a Jimny, they were met by a closed sign and no sign of an operational kitchen... Plan B quickly took effect with a hurried return to base to defrost some meat and braai once again. The skies meanwhile were gathering high altitude cloud which didn't bode well for star gazing. (They learned from the couple in the Jimny that the skies did eventually open at 2000 and the viewing was indeed very good). The thing about 2200 is that its about sixty minutes after Jeremy's usual sleep time.
The plan for Sunday was to obtain the key code for the Stadsaal Caves and Rock Art to explore these areas. Firstly assisting a nearby family with a flat battery with quick intervention to stop the folk who were already attending, from having mismatched polarity and some melted cables. After breakfast they set off at 1000 back over the pass on to Stadsaal. Here they spent a few hours in the various caves and chambers taking may photographs of the rock art and various rock formations the area has to offer.
Other than one other family the area remained uncrowded and without other visitors for the hours they spent at Stadsaal. They had also got lucky with the weather and the gentle breeze and the mild 26 degrees, making the visit much more manageable. The evening plan was a little different. Another braai!!! Monday morning they dropped off their keys and headed back on the same route via the Truitjieskraal Road to retrace their path of Friday. They couldn't resist stopping in at the quaint farm shoppe/restaurant at Op Die Berg again, for coffee and a comfort break. Then, on towards Wolseley and a stop at Rietdakkie Farm Stall and Kitchen on the R43. A beautiful establishment on the road between Wolseley and Worcester, hosting wonderful local gifts, fruits, jams and rusks. With a quirky decor and stunning bathrooms in a lovely setting, this is a gem of a place and worthy of a stop.
Returning home via the N1 and tunnel they made good time with a gentle tail wind helping to make for a very economical journey. On this trip they had managed to tick off a few passes, including the Gydo, Blinkberg, Grootrivier and Kromrivier.
Summary Aspects:
Total Distance: 596 KM. 45 litres of diesel. 7.65 L/100km.
Mass: – 395kg of 675kg max GVM allowed.
Accommodation: Luxury tent 4 Days, three nights.
Itinerary: Short visit to explore the rock art and caves of the Kromrivier Valley.
Weather: Hottest at 26 degrees full sun, coldest 12 degrees. Rainfall nil. Wind, light breeze, occasional in the late afternoon.
Signal Comms and GPS: Using GPS working with coordinates due to spotty cellular coverage. No issues. No cell coverage over most of the valley and the accommodation area. Complementary wifi from the Kromrivier Reception. No internet.
Forgotten items: Nothing forgotten for a change!!
Maps:
